Civilian Dress Standards

Men

Headgear should always be worn, shirt sleeves should always be rolled down and buttoned, shirts should always be tucked in the breeches, and a waistcoat should always be worn since a shirt is underwear.

Hats - Men of all classes wore headgear almost all of the time. A wide range of headwear is acceptable.

Cocked hats (tricorns): should be cocked in approximately an equilateral triangle. May be black, faded black, or brown. May have a black cockade (British) on one or both front sides, or a white cockade(Patriot), or a red and white cockade (Alliance). The hat may be trimmed with ferreting or the edges left unbound. If trimmed, the trimming should be black or white, or metallic braid for gentlemen.

Round hats: should have brim 2 to 6 inches wide. Brim may be turned up in the back or on one side, with or without decoration such as a cockade, feather or animal tail. The hat may be trimmed with ferreting or the edges left unbound. If trimmed, the trimming should be black or white. Color may be black, faded black or brown. Hats may be  white trimmed round hats with the flap turned up on the left side.

Workman’s caps: may be made of linen, cotton, wool or a combination of fabrics. May be any non-fluorescent color or striped.

Knit caps: both the Monmouth style and tuque style of wool knitted caps may be worn. May be any non-fluorescent color. Please note that tassels were not worn on knitted caps at this time.

Headscarves: handkerchiefs knotted over the head were occasionally worn. Black is the color most commonly mentioned, but since silk scarves came in many colors, any non-fluorescent color, or period print handkerchief may be worn. There is no documentation for scarves being worn under hats.

Straw hats: wide brimmed woven or braided straw hats may be worn. They should not be sewn.  Men’s hats had a 3 to 5 inch high rounded crown. Hats should be the natural color of the straw. There is no documentation for cocked straw hats during this time period so they are not permitted for this event.

Shirts - Men of all classes wore shirts. The shirts may be made of linen, hemp, cotton or wool. White or unbleached was the most common color. Higher class men wore ruffles on along the chest slit of their shirts. Small checks, about one quarter of an inch, were commonly worn by laborers. The most common color for checks was blue and white, although other color combinations are correct as well. Check size varied greatly and occasionally large furniture checks of two by two inches were used. Stripes are also appropriate for shirts. Collars may be as small as half an inch or as high as four inches and folded over. Wrist bands (cuffs) should be only about half an inch wide, but there was some variance and wider cuffs are permitted. Wrist bands could be held closed with a button or cuff links.

Neck cloths - Men of all classes wore some type of neckwear, although some lower class men worn none at all. From highest to lowest class here is what men generally wore: White cotton or linen cravats tied in a variety of ways; white cotton or linen neck stocks buckled in back; black cotton or linen neck stocks buckled in back; black leather or horse hair neck stocks tied or buckled in back; hemmed neck handkerchiefs in silk, cotton or linen in a variety of colors, checks and prints, open collar with no neck cloth. Note: the jabot or ruffled neck stock is from an earlier era and had gone out of fashion long before and is not permitted at this event.

Waistcoats - Men of all classes wore waistcoats at all time except perhaps when performing heavy labor. They could be sleeved or without sleeves. Waistcoats were made of silk, linen, hemp, wool, and cotton. The fabric on the back may match the front or be of a lesser quality fabric. The back may have laces for size adjustment. Waistcoats could be lined or unlined. They could have working or false pockets. The pockets could have from three to five working or decorative buttons or no buttons at all. The buttons could be metal, horn, bone, cloth covered wood, mother of pearl, or very rarely, wood. The length should reach the upper thigh. Thigh length waistcoats went out of style in the 1760's, although some may have remained in use by an older gentleman. Although waistcoats were commonly brown or blue, they could be any non-florescent color, striped, checked or printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards).

Coats and jackets - Men commonly wore coats or jackets at all times, regardless of the weather, when in the company of other people. Men may have removed their coats or jackets when working. Coats and jackets were made of silk, linen, wool, and cotton. Coats and jackets could be lined or unlined. They could have working or false pockets. The pockets could have from three to seven working or decorative buttons or no buttons at all. The buttons could be metal, horn, bone, cloth covered wood, mother of pearl, or very rarely, wood. Coats should reach to just above the knee and have less material in the skirt than the earlier examples.  Many were designed so that the could not be buttoned, but remained open to show the waistcoat.  Jackets should reach to mid thigh. Cuffs should reach from mid forearm to as far back as the elbow, or they may have mariner cuffs or a combination. Jackets may have no cuff at all. Although coats and jackets were most commonly brown or blue, they could be any non-florescent color, striped, or very rarely printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards).

Breeches - Men usually wore breeches, which may or may not have matched their waistcoats or coats. At this time the drop front was in use and the fly front had become outdated. Both are acceptable. Breeches were made of silk, wool, linen, hemp, cotton, or leather. The buttons could be metal, horn, bone, cloth covered wood, mother of pearl, or very rarely, wood. The knee band was usually held closed with at buckle for all classes, but ties or buttons were also used. The knee band usually was just below the kneecap. Breeches could be any non-florescent color, striped, checked, or very rarely printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards).

Trousers - Lower class men often wore trousers. At this time the drop front was most common. Trousers were made of linen, hemp, cotton or wool. Corduroy may have been used for trousers at this time. The buttons could be metal, horn, bone, cloth covered wood, mother of pearl, or very rarely, wood. The leg of the trousers was full the entire length. Trouser legs reached down to mid calf or to as far at the top of the shoe. Trousers could be any non-florescent color, striped, checked, or very rarely printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards).

Breechclout - Some men, especially those on the frontier, wore a breechclout. Breechclouts were typically of wool, although it is possible that they were made of other materials such as linen or animal skins. Period documents indicate that 18th century breechclouts were quite skimpy, however, for this event we recommend longer and wider ones. A width of 9 to 12 inches and a length of 54 to 60 inches, depending on your size would be right for most people. Breechclouts could be any non-florescent color, and were sometimes decorated with ribbon or other means.

Stockings - Men typically wore stockings at all times, however, lower class men may have shed both shoes and stockings in warmer weather. Stockings could be machine knitted, hand knitted, or made from cut and sewn fabric. They could be made of silk, linen, cotton, or wool. Stockings came in a variety of colors, but most commonly they were white or off white. Stockings did not have horizontal stripes during this period and are not permitted for this event. There is very tenuous evidence for vertical stripe on sailors only, so vertical stripes are permitted only for those doing a sailor impression. Stockings reached over the knee and were often held in place with buckled leather or tied, woven garter. The garter was placed on the stocking just be low the knee and is sometimes seen beneath the knee band of the breeches.

Footwear - Men commonly wore leather shoes that either buckled or tied. While straight lasted shoes were the rule in the 18th century, right and left shoe made in an 18th century style are permitted. Shoes were commonly black, although brown, blue and red are also documented. Rough out leather shoes were common for laborers and other lower class people. Smooth out leather was worn by those able to afford a nicer shoe. Riding boots are appropriate if one has a horse. Farmers and other rural people sometimes wore a laced boot called a hi-lo boot. French and German men sometimes wore wooden shoes. Indian shoes or moccasins are appropriate for frontiers men or others whose shoes have worn out. Modern footwear is permissible if it is disguised and completely covered by leggings or gaiters. For safety reasons, all men must wear some type of footwear during scenarios before the public, and it is highly recommend that you wear some type of footwear at all times outside of your tent.

Leggings and gaiters - Many men wore leggings or gaiters while in the woods or working in the fields to protect their stockings and legs, as well as for warmth. Gaiters were generally tight fitting and buttoned up on the outside of the leg. They were generally made of canvas or leather. They were sometimes painted to waterproof them. Leggings were generally tight fitting, but often looser than gaiters. Leggings were generally made of wool, leather, or less often canvas. Legging and gaiter came in wide range of colors. Some men wore buckled leather, or tied woven garters just below the knee.

Smock, Hunting Shirt, or Over Shirt - Many men wore large over shirts, called smocks, wagoner frocks, or hunting shirts, to keep their clothes clean while working. Some men, especially on the frontier, wore an over shirts as their sole outer garment. Over shirts were worn as the outermost garment and it is inappropriate to wear an over shirt under a waistcoat or coat. The shirts could be made of linen, hemp, cotton, or wool. They were commonly un-dyed, but could be found in any non florescent color, or less commonly stripes or checks. The shirts were pull over, not open front, and without capes. They reached from mid thigh to knee length.

Rifleman's Frock - A caped and fringed shirt, open at the front and dyed in a variety of colors.

Eyeglasses - An examination of 18th century portraits show that about sixty percent of the eyeglasses pictured were silver framed and about forty percent were black framed. In addition, brass frames are mentioned in trade lists. All of the eyeglasses pictured had round lenses about an inch across. The temples of the eyeglasses ended in a round ring rather than the teardrop shaped ring that would become poplar later in the century, however, both types are permitted for this event. Non period eyeglasses are permitted for health and safety reasons, however units should arraign their formations so that participants with non period eyewear are not obvious to the public.

Hairstyles - A broad range of hairstyles are found in 18th century paintings and prints from shaved heads to pony tails. Accordingly, any hairstyle is permitted at this event provided that the hair does not come forward on the face. Period illustrations do not support bangs or sideburns.

Women

Caps - Women of all classes wore caps all the time, including while wearing hats. Caps were made of white or off white linen, cotton or wool. There are a variety of caps appropriate to variety of ethnicities. One cap, however, is not permitted at this event and that is the round "mob" cap, which consists of a round piece of cloth and drawstring to shape it into a cap. This cap is a colonial revival creation and is not found in the 18th century.

Hats - Women often wore hats of woven or braided straw or hats of wool or fur felt. Women’s hats usually had low crowns, less than two inches high and often nearly flat. Some women wore the higher crowned hats normally associated with men. The hats may be decorated with ribbons, flowers, etc. Decoration was normally kept simple. The brim of the hat may be shaped to tilt one part up or down, however, there is no documentation for attaching the back of the brim to the crown. Also, there is no documentation for wearing the brim on the side pulled down tightly so that it covers the side of the face like a bonnet. Some women wore men’s style tricorn hats while wearing riding dress. At this event, only women in riding dress are permitted to wear tricorn hats.

Shifts - Women of all classes wore shifts all the time. Shifts were white, off white, or unbleached linen, cotton, or wool. Shifts had a scooped neckline, sleeves reaching to just below the elbow and the hemline reached to mid calf. Some had ruffles at the neckline and or the cuff. The cuff could have a drawstring to tighten it or close with at button or cuff link. The neckline of the shift did not adjust significantly with a drawstring. Shifts with adjustable necklines are not found in the 18th century. If you wear and adjustable neckline shifts you will need to keep it covered with a handkerchief, jacket, etc.

Stays - Women generally wore stay all of the time. There are notable exceptions to this so while the Authenticity Committee encourages women to wear stays, stays are not required for this event. Stays were considered underwear and generally not exposed.

Handkerchiefs - Most women wore a large handkerchief around their neck to cover the skin left exposed by their shift. This could be for warmth or to protect the skin from the sun. This is more common in more mature women. Handkerchiefs for this purpose were silk, linen, cotton or wool. While commonly white, they may be any non-florescent color, striped, checked or printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards).

Gowns - Gowns were the most common dress for women of this period and were worn by even the lowest classes. The Authenticity Committee requests that any women with 1750s style linen or cotton gowns to wear them to this event. This will present a truer picture of the 18th century to the visitors to this event.

Short gowns - Short gowns are working garments that women wore as an alternative to gowns. While there are conflicting opinions as to whether short gowns were worn in the 1750s, they are permitted for wear at this event. Surviving examples are made of linen or cotton, easily washed fabrics for working garments. They may be any non-florescent color, striped, checked or printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards).

Bed jackets - Bed jackets or bed gowns were a common garment worn by all classes of women in the 18th century. Bed jackets reach for mid thigh to knee length. They may be pinned closed, held closed by an apron, or left hanging open. They could be made of linen, cotton, or wool. They may be any non-florescent color, striped, or printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards).

Jackets - Jackets are sleeved, fitted garments that were a common alternative to the gown. They could be made of linen, cotton, or wool. They may be any non-florescent color, striped, or printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards).

Petticoats - Women of all classes wore petticoats all of time when in public. In fact, women typically wore two or more petticoats at a time, even in summer. Petticoats at this time were quite full, the circumference of the hem being three to four times the waist measurement. They could be made of silk, linen, cotton, or wool. They may be any non-florescent color, striped, or printed (bring your documentation if wearing a print so we can update our standards). Adult petticoats did not have tucks in them.

Pockets - Women usually wore one or two pockets beneath their petticoats to carry their everyday items. Eighteenth century pockets were often very large, sometimes as much as 18 inches long and 12 inches wide. While sometimes highly decorated, pockets were worn beneath outer clothing and not generally visible.

Aprons - Women of all classes wore aprons as part of their daily dress. While aprons were often white, they could be any non-fluorescent color, checked or possibly striped. Aprons were made of linen, cotton, or wool. Wool aprons are safer when working around a fire as they do not catch fire as quickly as cotton or linen. Adult English women did not wear bibs on the front of their aprons as French women and English children did.

Stockings - Women typically wore stockings at all times, however, lower class women may have shed both shoes and stockings in warmer weather. Stockings could be machine knitted, hand knitted, or made from cut and sewn fabric. They could be made of silk, linen, cotton, or wool. Stockings came in a variety of colors, but most commonly they were white or off white. Stockings did not have horizontal stripes during this period and are not permitted for this event. There is very tenuous evidence for vertical stripe on sailors only, so women are not permitted to wear any striped stockings at this event. Stockings reached over the knee and were often held in place with buckled leather or tied, woven garter above or below the knee.

Footwear - Women commonly wore leather shoes that either buckled or tied. While straight lasted shoes were the rule in the 18th century, right and left shoes made in an 18th century style are permitted. Shoes were commonly black, although brown, blue and red are also documented. Slippers, called mules today, would probably not have been worn on Braddock’s campaign, but are acceptable for camp wear for this event. Indian shoes or moccasins are appropriate for frontiers women or others whose shoes have worn out. French and German women sometimes wore wooden shoes. Modern footwear is permissible if covered by petticoats.

Hairstyles - Eighteenth century paintings and prints show that women’s hair is almost always fully contained within a cap. Occasionally, girls and young women are shown with ponytails sticking out the back of the caps. Hair is combed back and while it may be visible around the front or sides of the cap, it does not sweep forward on the face or hang down in bangs.

Children should in general follow the guidelines for adults, however, wide latitude is granted by the Authenticity Committee with respect to children. We acknowledge that children grow quickly and it difficult to keep them historically accurate clothing for all the time periods that you may portray. We encourage participation of children in this event and will not strictly apply authenticity standards to children.

The following items are not documented as having been in use at the time of Braddock’s Campaign and are not permitted to be worn, used, or openly displayed at Old Bedford Village during the periods that it is open to the public. Anyone having documentation indicating that any of the items were in use may submit copies of the documentation to the Braddock Standards committee for consideration to include the item. Address your request to the Authenticity Committee or to Old Bedford Village. Acceptable documentation is any primary source from 1760 or earlier for clothing items or 1780 for camp or equipment items. The earlier date for clothing is necessary due to frequent changes in clothing styles. Only one primary source is required to request that an item be approved, it is not necessary to have three sources to show that it was common. However, providing more that one source will increase the likelihood of approval. The types of primary sources that you may use include paintings, drawings, descriptions in letters or journals, original artifacts from museum collections and archeological finds. When using written descriptions make sure they fully describe the object, not just list it. The decisions of the Authenticity Committee are final.

-Celtic pen annular broaches

-Round mob caps

-Sleeveless bodices

-Groomed facial hair (Ungroomed facial hair is acceptable. If you where a mustache, goatee, etc stop shaving for several days before the event.)

-Center seam leggings

- Double pouch hunting bags

- Waistcoats with one or two buttons on pocket flaps

- Open front hunting shirts

- Capes on pull over shirts

- Candy striped blankets

- Glass bottomed pewter tankards

- Two piece slatted camp chairs

- "African Birthing" chairs

- Sheath knifes hanging from leather belts on women

- Scottish bonnets (unless the persona has documentation for it)

- Scottish plaid fabric

- Wristwatches

- Pocket watch chains

- Visible pockets in women, no matter their marital status

- Horizontal stripes on stockings

- Vertical striped stockings on non-sailors

- C-shaped butt plates on rifles or muskets - These belong to a later period.

- Undisguised modern foot wear (modern footwear is permitted if covered by leggings or petticoats, also this rule is relaxed for children)

- Buttons made from deer antlers

- Large round iron belt buckles

- Hay or straw bails used as furniture (hay bailing machines were invented in the 19th century)